Morocco is exploding in popularity – here’s how Kiwis can see it

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Morocco is exploding in popularity – and for good reason. It’s an African country rich in contrasts: from the golden dunes of the Sahara Desert to the vibrant markets of Marrakech, a holiday here promises to be the trip of a lifetime.

In the first five months of 2023, five million tourists visited – eclipsing pre-Covid records. There is a growing trend of travellers seeking an adventure off the beaten path, and thanks to some excellent group tours, Morocco is now more accessible than ever.

I’ve recently returned from an Intrepid Travel tour of the country on one of their new Premium Tours. This means the best guides, better accommodation, and lots of added extras.

The tour started in Casablanca – the country’s major international gateway – and included stops in the Atlas Mountains, the mediaeval city of Fes and, of course, the unmissable Marrakech. We dined with local families who cooked traditional meals, spotted monkeys in the mountains, and were guided through a maze of ancient alleyways.

It was one of the best weeks I’ve been lucky enough to have on the planet, and made all the better with the lifelong friends I made on the tour.

So, should you visit Morocco? When I first thought of going, I had a series of questions that made me a little hesitant. It’s likely you might have the same concerns. Now that I’ve been there, here are the answers.

Our feature stay included an incredible five-star resort in the mountains.

Radha Engling/Stuff

Our feature stay included an incredible five-star resort in the mountains.

Is it safe?

This was my biggest surprise during the trip: Morocco is nothing like I imagined.

Yes, you need to be aware of pickpocketing in the cities – but the great thing about our Intrepid group was that most of the time, we had a local guide at the front directing us and our main tour guide at the back of the group. I called it the “safety sandwich”, and it meant nobody ran into problems.

I did see someone on a motorbike attempt to pickpocket, but that was two ladies on their own. Overall, everybody I met in Morocco went out of their way to make us feel welcome. Just like we have the concept of caring for guests in New Zealand – known as manaakitanga in Māori – there is a similar version in the Arab world: diyafa. The term is used to describe the tradition of welcoming, feeding and entertaining guests. It’s an age-old concept, where you would even be expected to extend that hospitality towards your enemies.

The best source of advice for New Zealanders is the Safe Travel website. It has a level two or four rating for Morocco, “exercise increased caution”. It’s also a good idea to consult with your travel doctor before travelling here.

We toured the ancient city centre of Fes.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

We toured the ancient city centre of Fes.

What’s the accommodation like?

Our Premium tour had an exceptional variety of accommodation, the favourite being riads which are a traditional-style lodging with palatial interiors. These are found in medinas which is the Arab world for old fortified towns. One of the best preserved in the world is Fes, which we visited on our second day – it’s a magical maze with more than 9000 streets, dating back more than 1200 years.

It might be a labyrinth, but it didn’t stop Bono from U2 finding what he was looking for: Riad Yacout. The band famously recorded music there, and it’s where we stayed for two magical nights. Breakfast in the grand, extravagantly decorated courtyard had us all feeling like rock stars.

Each Premium tour also includes a feature stay, which it promises will be “unforgettable”. Ours was at a remote five-star retreat called Widiane Resort, overlooking the mountains. It felt like a miniature version of Queenstown in Morocco. Here, we had a fine-dining dinner in a castle, and got some free time to enjoy the impressive infinity pool overlooking the lake. It was, as Intrepid promised, unforgettable.

Most Intrepid tours include a visit to Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

Most Intrepid tours include a visit to Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca.

What about bathrooms?

This is the bit we don’t want to talk about, but all want to know. The remarkable thing about our Intrepid tour was the planning – right down to the tiniest of details.

One of our favourite experiences was visiting a Berber family for lunch. These are the Indigenous population of North Africa, some of whom still practice their centuries-old nomadic lifestyle.

Their house was charmingly basic, but Intrepid had still worked with them to ensure Western toilet facilities were installed and available.

On long drives, there was the odd instance of having to use squat toilets, and my only tip is to bring toilet paper with you, just in case.

We visited the ancient remains of Volubilis.

Radha Engling/Stuff

We visited the ancient remains of Volubilis.

What are the locals like?

The people are some of the most generous and hospitable I’ve ever come across. A great example was our driver, Mohamed.

Our guide mentioned we were passing Mohamed’s house, and one of our fellow guests started asking what a local house was like. Mohamed enthusiastically asked if he could show us – and 10 minutes later, we pulled up at his home.

He’d phoned ahead with a warning call, meaning the entire neighbourhood had swung into action organising snacks and mint tea for our arrival. The moment we sat down, food began flying onto the table, and his extended family lined up for an introduction. They couldn’t speak English, and we couldn’t speak Arabic, but the smiles said all we needed to know.

We stayed two nights in Fes.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

We stayed two nights in Fes.

Where should I go?

We had a limited amount of time, so picked Intrepid’s eight-day tour – which is on the shorter end of 30 plus tours Intrepid offers in Morocco. It includes the jewel in North Africa’s crown, Marrakech. The other highlight was Fes, which is home to one of the oldest medinas on Earth.

However, if you have longer, I’d definitely recommend Intrepid’s 15-day Premium in Depth tour that includes Chefchaouen (the so-called “Blue City”) and a luxury stay in a spectacular camp in the Sahara.

What’s the best time to visit?

Hassan II Mosque is the only one in the country open to non-Muslims.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

Hassan II Mosque is the only one in the country open to non-Muslims.

Morocco is a country that experiences everything from snow to severe heat, so spring and autumn is the perfect time to visit, when temperatures are mild.

You’ll find cheaper tours during the hot months, from June to September – but bear in mind, places like Marrakesh can hit the high 30s – or even into the 40s – during this time.

Are tours good value?

One of things I like most about Intrepid’s approach is that they keep their groups small – with an average of 10 travellers – while other operators we saw had around 30. The other point of difference is their ethical approach; they thoroughly vet activities to ensure the money (from things like family visits) actually goes to the people who need it.

The tours work out great value for money, not only because of the number of inclusions, but the fact none of us had to worry about doing any planning – it was all taken care of. The importance of this can’t be overstated in a place like Morocco, where it is easy to become disoriented, English isn’t widely spoken, and you can get ripped off if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Our feature stay for the tour included two nights at Widiane Resort in the mountains.

Brook Sabin/Stuff

Our feature stay for the tour included two nights at Widiane Resort in the mountains.

What cultural factors should I consider?

Religion plays a significant role in the everyday life of Moroccans. The call to prayer echoes five times a day from minarets across the cities and countryside. Non-Muslims are not usually allowed inside mosques, with the exception of the giant Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca – which Intrepid will take you to.

Although Morocco is comparatively liberal in the Arabic world, it’s recommended women avoid wearing revealing clothing as a sign of respect for local customs.

Fact file

Intrepid offers a multitude of Morocco itineraries from roughly $800 to more than $4000 per person. The tours range from a few days to multi-weeks.

Our tour was the eight-day Premium Morocco Highlights starting from $2547 per person, including a complimentary airport transfer, many meals, better accommodation options and tipping. Intrepid is the world’s largest travel B-Corp and is a carbon-neutral business. Each tour is carbon offset. See: intrepidtravel.com/nz/morocco

Getting there: Emirates, Qatar and Etihad (via Sydney) offer flights via their Middle East hubs to Casablanca.

Carbon footprint: Flying generates carbon emissions. To reduce your impact, consider other ways of travelling, amalgamate your trips, and when you need to fly, consider offsetting emissions.

Health and safety: Safe Travel has a level two or four rating for Morocco, “exercise increased caution”. You can read the latest advice here: safetravel.govt.nz/morocco

This story was produced as a part of an editorial partnership with Intrepid, which hosted the writer. Read more about our partnership content here.